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Utwanna Lake, 7PM, Sun., 9/12/04
Beautiful sunny skies ushered us here from Blue Mountain Lake this afternoon. Ray, Rich, Jean, Pat, Terry, and I are looking forward to a relaxing week without tight schedules to make. We have more than enough time to paddle and explore at will. Rich is trying to start a fire. Correction, he just started a fire as I write. We are camped at a lean-to along the north shore, our stomachs are full of supper (chicken, vegetables, and gravy over biscuits), and the cake has been baked and awaits us. The sun has dipped below the horizon, earlier than we are used to on canoe trips now that it is September. This is our first trip ever this late, made possible by my recent retirement and the fact that I'm no longer a "prisoner" of school summer vacations. In another half hour I will need my flashlight so I'm journaling now while I can still see.
Terry discovered this evening that he is due back at work next Monday and we aren't scheduled to go home until next Monday. Oh well! He also has a birthday party for Nathan Sunday night. He may end up both unemployed and divorced.
We have company, a pair of men kayaking the opposite direction. They arrived here shortly after us, our good fortune as we get the lean-to and fire pit. In 1998 it was just the opposite.
I will have to quit soon as I am losing my light. Everyone else is off hanging the bear bag, even Jean and Pat. ("Yes, you are allowed to help.") We wanted to hang it from a deadfall over Rich's hammock but he vetoed that proposal.
North end of Raquette Lake, 5:18PM, Mon., 9/13/04
We arrived here over an hour ago. This is a spacious site, even some lawn and several lean-tos. Rich is cooking jambalaya, soup, and salad accompanied by the usual good natured harassment.Conversations include our ludicrous topics from Terry's height ("Your feet don't touch the ground?") to Jean's tent ("You actually like that vestibule cutting off ventilation?"). Of course all of us know everything, not only about ourselves but about everyone else too. It's never boring.
We were on the water paddling early today without rushing to get started. Maybe it's the result of going to bed early with the early darkness. By 10:30 we had portaged into Raquette Lake and were paddling again. The Marion River wound a beautiful serpentine course through a wooded marsh before it broke out into the lake proper. Clear blue skies and bright sun were the order of the day. The breeze, strong at times, was often against us as to be expected. That's how we know what direction to paddle. We worked our muscles well, unaccustomed exercise that will cause us all to sleep well tonight.
Rich's campfire last night was his usual great job. We look forward to another one tonight. The lean-to even provides us with seats.
September means we almost have the lakes to ourselves. This is a great time to canoe. You don't cook in the sun like you do in July or August, and the nights are cool and comfortable. Ah, the joys of retirement.
Forked Lake, 7:26PM, Tues., 9/14/04
I'm late writing because I took a bath, was the chef, and just finished watching a "sky-on-fire" sunset. My light may be fading but our day is not. We have picnic tables in a big campsite, are full of beef stew and dumplings, and are ready for a convivial evening around a campfire. We even have cell phone coverage here.
This morning we were on the lake shortly after 9 and leisurely explored the northern shoreline of Raquette Lake. The lake was as still and flat as glass. The trees, driftwood, and huge rocks were all doubled by the mirror effect. We did a fast portage (half mile?) to Forked Lake and spent the rest of our paddling day exploring the shoreline. We even poked up a stream flowing into the lake, crossing two beaver dams before turning back.
It's great to have the lake and campgrounds to ourselves. In the summer this area would be crowded with campers and boaters.
Kelly Point on Long Lake, 6:16PM, Wed., 9/15/04
We are camped on a high point with a double lean-to. Granite steps lead up here; there is a grassy meadow behind us. This must have formerly been someone's very fancy summer home. There are granite blocks and concrete chunks everywhere, signs of the site's former glory. We passed by several lesser sites before we chose this one. Without other campers to compete with one can become very picky indeed. Our early start also gave us the luxury of checking out several possible campsites.
We car portaged Buttermilk Falls and rapids this morning (about 3 miles) and put in again just before Long Lake. A couple of hours of paddling brought us to the village of Long Lake where we had lunch in the town gazebo and walked to the general store for dessert of Ben and Jerry's ice cream, compliments of Terry.
As I write Terry is busy cooking a supper of broccoli, cheese, and rice soup to be followed by an entrée of Thai sesame noodles and chicken. We do eat well.
Even the view here is perfect. We look due west over the lake with the setting sun shining on us through the trees. Ray and Terry are enjoying happy hour (scotch), Rich is dead to the world in his hammock, and Jean and Pat are off somewhere being women. As long as our warm clear days and mild nights continue what more could we want?
Calkin's Creek, 4:58PM, Thurs., 9/16/04
We are all relaxing (again) in the lean-to here on the Cold River, a spot just off the Raquette River northeast of Long Lake. The sun is shining, the flies are lazily buzzing, and the crew is satiated with an easy day of paddling, a late lunch, and early wine.
Ray and I paddled over two miles up the Cold River, a record for us. Much of it meant forcing our way upstream through rocky shallows against a very swift current. Three times we even had to wade a short ways. The ride back down was swift and exhilarating as we maneuvered around boulders and sought the deeper water. Now we are part of the recumbent crowd.
Pat is cooking tonight as her supper is the heaviest remaining meal and we are doing the long, difficult portage tomorrow. (Sorry, that is a "carry" here in the Adirondacks.)
Our great weather continues to hold, the camaraderie remains strong, and Rich is finally learning to assume the blame for everything that goes wrong. Pat and Jean paddled together today, a first, with Jean doing a commendable job of steering. She fears we will make her portage the canoe tomorrow, a fate we would never inflict on our beloved sister (or on us).
The "thunderbox" here is brand new. I suspect that we christened it. We already have a stack of firewood gathered for this evening's campfire. This good life will spoil us. Pat says the mosquitoes here will prevent that.
Lower Raquette River, 4:18PM, Fril, 9/17'04
As I write I'm sitting on a pad leaning back against a tree with water visible on both front and back sides of our campsite. The rest of our crew is similarly reclined and sipping on wine as they read. We were ready for an early camp after portaging Raquette Falls today. It is a difficult 1.25 mile carry uphill then down. When you finish you know you have had a workout.
Our weather is changing, overcast and cool (68) but the only rain was a brief sprinkle last night at midnight. At least the cool weather kept us from sweating on the portage but it is not cold enough to drive away the mosquitoes.
Last night's supper included black bean soup. The soup promptly produced the expected gastrointestinal consequences. For lunch today we had refried beans which will surely continue the flatulence.
Just now Rich had out his camborder and Ray is also taking pictures. At least we will get to see Ray's photos on our website. Rich's video will disappear into his bottomless video pit along with our promised rafting video from eons ago.
I can hear Jean rattling pots for supper but I'm just going to relax and read. I like this "everyone cooks" system.
The river was much higher than usual today (a foot?) with the resulting faster current. It is a welcome novelty to be whisked along after days of lake paddling. We look forward to more of the same tomorrow.
Near Trombley's Landing, 6:12PM, Sat., 9/18/04
We are stuffed with Ray's vegetable, rice, beef medley, a wonderful mix of dried ingredients. We have full sun shining on us here on this low bluff, a requirement by Jean to dry out her damp sleeping bag, a mysterious consequence of last night's brief rain. Today we paddled in cool, windy weather which had us all bundled up until the sun finally broke through the clouds. We wandered up Stony Brook together, then Ray and I went farther than the others, exploring against the wind into First, Second, and Third Ponds (Stony Creek Ponds). This is also the traditional route to the Saranacs requiring a 1.1 mile portage. Upon our return to the Raquette we paddled the meanders, getting lost in a circle only once. ("Didn't we pass by that log before?")
We are already anticipating the return to our spouses and, at the same time, regretting that our trip will soon be over. The end always comes too soon when we are having fun.
Sun., 9/19/04
I'm writing from the warmth and comfort of home. We awoke this morning to our coldest temperatures yet, 45. Jean's comment was the equivalent of "I told you so" as she had provided us before the trip with the temperature averages for September in the Adirondacks. All the cool air really meant was that we dressed warmer for breakfast and wore more layers than usual as we paddled off down the river. The exercise soon had most of us warm despite the cool wind.
Last night we enjoyed rice pudding for dessert, making use of Ray's left-over rice and the raisins, dried milk, sugar, and cinnamon I always bring. Besides, baking in a strong wind is difficult.
By midday today we had reached Tupper Lake, loaded 3 canoes, all of our packs and gear, and 6 people into Pat's minivan. She had never had so much in and on it before. ("Will my springs hold up?") We stopped for lunch at the Blarney Stone in Long Lake, retrieved our other two vehicles, said our goodbyes, and left for home before 3:30. The trip is over but the memories will last a lifetime.
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Copyright © 2004 Scott Clark